Written by Dr Ambi Sud
Vitamin C Isn’t the Fix-All for Pigmentation, Wrinkles or Dull Skin. Here’s What You Actually Need to Know.
Tried every ‘brightening’ serum and still seeing no change?
You’re not alone. Vitamin C skincare is popular – but for many Australians, it simply isn’t strong enough to treat the pigmentation, melasma, or skin ageing you’re trying to fix.
We’re here to help you stop wasting money on serums and start using skincare that actually works – backed by medical science.
Vitamin C has built a cult following in Australian skincare – and for good reason. It’s a proven antioxidant, with some benefits for pigmentation, and boosting collagen. But despite the glowing testimonials and hefty price tags, it’s not the all-purpose solution it’s often made out to be.
In fact, if you’re using vitamin C in the hopes of treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or noticeable skin ageing – you may be misplacing your trust (and your money).
Let’s break it down – what vitamin C can do, what it can’t, and what to consider if you’re trying to treat pigmentation, skin dullness, signs of ageing, or to boost collagen effectively.
The Benefits of A Vitamin C Serum
1. Defends Against Environmental Stress
It neutralises free radicals caused by UV exposure, pollution and oxidative stress – making it a smart addition to your morning routine. Think of it as one line of defence – not your only one, and definitely not a sunscreen replacement.
2. Fades Very Mild Pigmentation
If you’ve got mild, surface level pigmentation, vitamin C can help – but it only works when paired with sunscreen.
3. Supports Your Skin’s Collagen Production Machinery
Vitamin C plays a key role in the skin’s natural collagen production – making it useful when used long-term in a broader anti-ageing routine with evidence-based actives like tretinoin (which can double your skin’s collagen content in 6 months of daily use!)
What Vitamin C Serum WON’T Do – Even If You Use It Daily!
✘ Treat Melasma, Deep Acne Marks or Significant Pigmentation
Vitamin C isn’t strong enough to resolve hormonal pigmentation or melasma. These conditions require active ingredients like hydroquinone, tretinoin, and kojic/azelaic/tranexamic acids, prescribed by a medical professional and used under medical supervision.
✘ Not Always Safe for Sensitive or Acne-Prone Skin
Vitamin C can cause irritation or worsen pigmentation. In fact, many patients come to us after months of using vitamin C serums – often with zero improvement, or with increased irritation and new breakouts.
Why? L-ascorbic acid (the most effective form of vitamin C) is acidic, unstable, and hard to tolerate for many skin types – especially if you’re also using prescription ingredients or actives like AHAs, BHAs or retinoids. And the vitamin C derivatives that are sold as non-irritating are also completely ineffective!
✘ Not a Replacement for Sunscreen or Prescription Level Treatments
Vitamin C supports skin defence, but it does not block UV. You still need broad-spectrum SPF to prevent pigmentation and ageing.
Why Your Vitamin C Serum Might Not Be Working
Common reasons vitamin C fails:
• You’re using low-quality derivatives: Many over-the-counter serums use weaker, poorly absorbed forms of vitamin C that have no scientific evidence that they work. Don’t be fooled by price – these can still be very expensive!
• Your serum is the wrong pH or concentration: You need at least 15% ascorbic acid, and it must be around pH 3.2 to penetrate skin effectively.
• The active form (L-ascorbic acid) is irritating your skin
• You’re trying to treat a condition that needs prescription-level care with something that was marketed to help (but never could!)
• You’re trying to use vitamin C with retinol or exfoliants without guidance. This combo can cause irritation that leads to increased breakouts or darker pigmentation if used incorrectly
How To Use A Vitamin C Serum
- Apply a few drops on clean, damp skin each morning, before sunscreen.
- For those on prescription skincare, consult the Qr8 Support team before adding vitamin C to your routine so you don’t cause irritation that can lead to perioral dermatitis, increased breakouts and hyperpigmentation.
- Remember: Consistency is key – results come with time (and using sunscreen properly), not overnight miracles.
- What Our Medical Team Recommends: If your skin is stable and in the maintenance phase, we may suggest a clinically backed serum like SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic (15% L-ascorbic acid at optimal pH with ferulic acid and vitamin E). It has the most scientific evidence for antioxidant protection if used correctly and at the right time in your skin journey. But it’s not the starting point. And it’s never the core of the treatment plan. The Qr8 team will provide very detailed instructions on how to use it.
Topical Retinoids can double your skin’s collagen content in 6 months of daily use to plump fine lines and wrinkles
READY FOR A PLAN THAT ACTUALLY WORKS?
OUR DOCTORS PRESCRIBE CLINICALLY-BACKED TREATMENTS FOR PIGMENTATION, DULLNESS, SUN DAMAGE, LINES & WRINKLES – TAILORED TO YOUR SKIN AND DELIVERED ACROSS AUSTRALIA.
BOOK A CONSULTATION WITH AN EXPERIENCED AUSTRALIAN DOCTOR TODAY TO DISCUSS YOUR TREATMENT OPTIONS HERE
WHAT YOU GET WITH OUR PRESCRIPTION SKIN PLANS
• Personalised plan for your skin type, condition & goals
• Medical-grade actives (like hydroquinone, tretinoin, azelaic acid)
• Ongoing support from expert nurses and dermal therapists
• Delivered express to your door, Australia-wide
• No guesswork, gimmicks or fads. Just results
REFERENCES:
A Skincare Scientist Explains Why This Cult $242 Serum Is Worth the Money. Adore Beauty. https://www.adorebeauty.com.au/beautyiq/skincare/skinceuticals-c-e-ferulic-review/
Ngan V. Topical vitamin C. DermNet. https://dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-vitamin-c. Published 2002. Reviewed September 2023.
Harvard Health Publishing. Why is topical vitamin C important for skin health? Harvard Health Blog. https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-is-topical-vitamin-c-important-for-skin-health-202111102635. Published November 10, 2021.
