The best sunscreen if you have melasma

Melasma causes brown or grey-brown patches on the face, particularly the cheeks, nose, forehead, chin and upper lip. It’s frustrating and can be distressing. It’s also long-term, with no known cure.

It’s tricky to manage. Over-the-counter fading products, including fan-favourite vitamin C, generally don’t do much. Microneedling isn’t an evidence-based option for this type of pigment. And many lasers, light treatments and peels can fade it at first, only for it to come back darker.

Why sunscreen matters so much

Whatever else is part of your care, sun protection is the single most important factor in fading melasma and keeping it from returning. That’s because melasma pigment is extremely sensitive to both UV and visible light.

UVA and UVB

UVC is blocked by the atmosphere, so the two that matter are UVA and UVB.

UVA makes up 95% of the UV reaching the ground. It penetrates deep into the skin and drives the collagen breakdown behind skin ageing. It doesn’t burn or feel hot, barely drops in winter, and passes through glass, so office and car windows offer little protection.

UVB causes sunburn (‘B’ for burning, ‘A’ for ageing). Together, UVA and UVB cause skin cancer.

Visible and blue light

Visible light from the sun also affects melasma. Pigment is particularly sensitive to blue-violet light, the highest-energy part of the visible spectrum. It also increases redness and inflammation in all skin types, especially darker skin tones.

What about screens? Blue light from phones, computers and lamps is far weaker than the sun’s, and studies show it doesn’t worsen melasma. High-intensity blue light from LED masks or in-clinic devices is a different story and may drive pigmentation, so it’s best avoided if you’re managing pigmentation.

RelatedMelasma vs hyperpigmentation: how to tell the difference

How SPF works

SPF50 blocks 98% of UVB, and SPF30 blocks 96%. That sounds close, but look at what gets through: SPF30 lets in twice as much UVB as SPF50, assuming you apply enough.

The SPF number only measures UVB. In Australia, UVA protection must be at least a third of the UVB protection, but it doesn’t have to be listed. Because of that ratio, a higher SPF generally means higher UVA protection too.

Mineral or chemical?

‘Mineral’ sunscreens use filters such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. ‘Chemical’ sunscreens use organic filters. Technically, they’re all chemicals, and both mostly work the same way: by absorbing UV and turning it into a tiny amount of harmless heat.

• Texture. Mineral sunscreens tend to be thicker and can leave a white cast. Chemical sunscreens are usually lighter and easier to reapply.
• ‘Natural’? Mineral filters are processed in a lab to remove impurities, and ‘transparent’ mineral sunscreens use lab-made minerals. Neither type is more natural or safer.

For melasma, you need strong protection against both UVB and UVA, especially the longer UVA1 wavelengths. Zinc oxide covers UVA1 well, and so do many newer chemical filters.

Blocking visible light

Even a thick, visible layer of mineral sunscreen doesn’t block blue light. The only proven way is iron oxides, the pigments that give tinted sunscreens and make-up their colour. A concentration above 3% works best, which is why foundation over sunscreen isn’t enough, and why many tinted sunscreens fall short.

Antioxidants such as vitamins C and E help reduce inflammation from visible light, but they don’t prevent blue-light pigmentation, which works through a different mechanism.

The take-home message

• Choose SPF50+ with strong UVA protection.
• Make it well tinted, with enough iron oxides to block visible light.
• Use enough, and reapply through the day. The SPF on the label only applies if you do.
• Layer up: hats, clothing, shade, and staying out of peak sun.

Read more about how we care for melasma.

References

1. Morgado-Carrasco D, Piquero-Casals J, Granger C, et al. Melasma: the need for tailored photoprotection to improve clinical outcomes. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2022;38(6):515-21.
2. Geisler AN, Austin E, Nguyen J, et al. Visible light. Part II: photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84(5):1233-44.
3. Lyons AB, Trullas C, Kohli I, et al. Photoprotection beyond ultraviolet radiation: a review of tinted sunscreens. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2021;84(5):1393-7.
4. Dumbuya H, Grimes PE, Lynch S, et al. Impact of iron-oxide containing formulations against visible light-induced skin pigmentation in skin of color individuals. J Drugs Dermatol. 2020;19(7):712-17.
5. Kaye ET, Levin JA, Blank IH, et al. Efficiency of opaque photoprotective agents in the visible light range. Arch Dermatol. 1991;127(3):351-5.
6. Cohen L, Brodsky MA, Zubair R, et al. Cutaneous interaction with visible light: what do we know. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2020.
7. Lim HW, Kohli I, Ruvolo E, et al. Impact of visible light on skin health: the role of antioxidants and free radical quenchers in skin protection. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2022;86(3S):S27-37.
8. Ruvolo E, Boothby-Shoemaker W, Kumar N, et al. Evaluation of efficacy of antioxidant-enriched sunscreen products against long wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2022;44(3):394-402.
9. McDonald KA, Lytvyn Y, Mufti A, et al. Review on photoprotection: a clinician’s guide to the ingredients, characteristics, adverse effects, and disease-specific benefits of chemical and physical sunscreen compounds. Arch Dermatol Res. 2023;315(4):735-49.
10. Duteil L, Cardot-Leccia N, Queille-Roussel C, et al. Differences in visible light-induced pigmentation according to wavelengths. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2014;27(5):822-6.
11. Kohli I, Chaowattanapanit S, Mohammad TF, et al. Synergistic effects of long-wavelength ultraviolet A1 and visible light on pigmentation and erythema. Br J Dermatol. 2018;178(5):1173-80.
12. Duteil L, Queille-Roussel C, Lacour JP, et al. Short-term exposure to blue light emitted by electronic devices does not worsen melasma. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2020;83(3):913-14.
13. Soleymani T, Cohen DE, Folan LM, et al. Disparity in cutaneous pigmentary response to LED vs halogen incandescent visible light. J Drugs Dermatol. 2017;16(11):1105-10.

This article is general information only. It isn’t a substitute for personal medical advice, so speak with a health professional about your own skin.