Do eye creams (and more sleep) work for dark circles?

We all have them, to some degree. But can an eye cream fix dark circles? Here’s what the evidence says.

What causes them

Part of the problem is that dark circles have several different causes, and sometimes more than one at once.

• Shadowing. Blood vessels can show through thin under-eye skin, giving a blue or purple tone. This can be age-related, inherited or both. Changes in the contour around the eye, such as bone loss, shifting fat pads, muscle changes and sun damage, also cast shadows that can deepen with age.
• Pigmentation. Extra pigment can follow asthma, allergies, eye rubbing, contact allergies (sometimes to eye creams), dermatitis around the eyes, or eczema.
• Genetics. Inherited pigmentation plays a big part, especially in skin of colour.
• Less common causes. Some medicines, including some eye drops, antibiotics and the contraceptive pill, and pregnancy.

What about sleep?

If only it were that easy. When dark circles are measured objectively, getting more sleep makes no difference to how severe they are. Poor sleep can, however, make us feel they look worse when we look in the mirror.

RelatedPerioral and periorificial dermatitis

What can help

The first and most important step is working out the cause, or causes. That needs someone to actually look at the area, which is why a video consultation is better than a questionnaire and photos alone.

Depending on the cause, options may include:

• laser, for visible vessels and to build collagen in thin skin
• sorting out allergies or dermatitis around the eyes with a health professional
• surgery, fat transfer or very careful use of fillers for contour changes
• prescription treatments to fade pigment or thicken thin, sun-damaged skin, used under close medical supervision. These can irritate the delicate skin around the eyes and aren’t suitable for everyone.
• a really good concealer and colour corrector, which can make a big difference while you work on the cause

What doesn’t

• Cosmetic eye creams that claim to fix dark circles
• More sleep
• Drinking more water

So what can an eye cream do? Moisturise, which temporarily plumps the skin and softens fine lines, as long as you use it daily. But any gentle moisturiser used around the eye area does the same thing.

Did you know perioral dermatitis can affect the skin around the eyes too? Read more about it here.

References

1. Friedmann DP, Goldman MP. Dark circles: etiology and management options. Clin Plast Surg. 2015;42(1):33-50.
2. Matsui MS, Schalka S, Vanderover G, et al. Physiological and lifestyle factors contributing to risk and severity of peri-orbital dark circles in the Brazilian population. An Bras Dermatol. 2015;90(4):494-503.
3. Oyetakin-White P, Suggs A, Koo B, et al. Does poor sleep quality affect skin ageing? Clin Exp Dermatol. 2015;40(1):17-22.
4. Lim HGY, Fischer AH, Sachdev D, et al. Periocular dark circles: correlates of severity. Ann Dermatol. 2021;33(5):394-401.
5. Pissaridou MK, Ghanem A, Lowe N. Periorbital discolouration diagnosis and treatment: evidence-based review. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2020;22(6-8):217-25.

This article is general information only. It isn’t a substitute for personal medical advice, so speak with a health professional about your own skin.