Is the ‘retinoid purge’ real?
One of the reasons many people put off starting a retinoid for acne is a fear of things getting worse before they get better. Here’s what’s really going on.
The short version
- Not everyone experiences a purge, and when it happens it’s usually mild and short-lived.
- It tends to appear where you normally break out and settles within a few weeks.
- A gentle routine and daily sunscreen matter more than any extra product.
Purging gets a lot of airtime on social media. The good news? Not everyone experiences a purge when starting a retinoid, and for those who do, it’s usually mild and short-lived.
What a purge is
Retinoids speed up the turnover of skin cells. Early on, this can bring blocked pores to the surface faster than usual, which shows up as a temporary increase in breakouts. As the skin adjusts, this settles, and so do the breakouts.
For most people this takes a few weeks. How noticeable it is varies from person to person.
RelatedPerioral and periorificial dermatitis
Setting expectations
Sometimes what looks like ‘purging’ is simply a case of expecting too much, too soon. Many people with acne have spent years trying one product after another, hoping for a quick fix. Acne is often a longer-term condition, and most approaches take time.
Research suggests changes are usually seen over 8 to 12 weeks. Patience is part of the process.
Purge or irritation?
More likely a purge
- Breakouts where you usually get them
- Small bumps that come and go faster than usual
- Settles within a few weeks
More likely irritation
- Breakouts in new areas
- Ongoing stinging, burning or a rash
- Getting worse rather than settling
If you’re not sure which you’re seeing, check in with a health professional rather than pushing through.
If you’re in the middle of one
- Go gentle. It’s tempting to over-cleanse, exfoliate and scrub, but that adds inflammation and makes the whole process harder.
- Keep it simple. A mild cleanser, a simple moisturiser and daily sunscreen.
- Hands off. Pimple patches can help spots heal and stop you picking.
- Sunscreen, every day. UV can make the marks left behind by breakouts darker and longer-lasting.
Worth knowing
Retinoids aren’t right for everyone. Common side effects include dryness, peeling, redness and increased sensitivity to the sun, and they aren’t suitable during pregnancy or when trying to conceive.
If irritation feels like too much, speak with a doctor or pharmacist about what’s right for your skin.
Acne care at Qr8
Private, ongoing care with our doctors and nurses, Australia-wide. Video consultations from $55.
How we care for acneThis article is general information only. It isn’t a substitute for personal medical advice, so speak with a health professional about your own skin.
