From Hannibal Lecter-esque LED face masks, to Glinda the Good Witch style LED and microcurrent wands, there is a myriad of at-home skin devices on the market that promise to deliver professional-grade results from the comfort of your home. But are these devices worth your hard-earned dollars? Let’s explore the science behind some of these devices, their effectiveness, and whether they deserve a spot in your skincare routine.

1. Microcurrent Devices: A Closer Look

With the popularity of GLP-1 weight loss drugs such as Ozempic, sagging skin following weight loss is a big concern, there has been a surge of interest in home devices such as microcurrent facial lifting and microcurrent toning devices for those looking to ‘tighten’ or ‘lift’ facial features. These gadgets claim to lift and tone facial muscles, reduce wrinkles, and enhance facial contours by delivering tiny electrical currents to the skin. The claims are that this is achieved by increasing cellular energy (ATP), increasing muscle size, and promoting collagen production.

The Science

The science of these devices is limited. One study on two microcurrent devices found:

– After four months of daily use, plastic surgeons couldn’t detect any significant anti-aging improvements in before-and-after photos.

– Of the 18 participants, only 10 completed the study, citing lack of results or difficulty maintaining the daily regimen.

Another study on a (now discontinued) microcurrent device, showed an increase in muscle thickness after using the device for 20 mins daily for 12 weeks, but whether increasing muscle mass objectively improved facial contours or sagging was not proven.

Does Microcurrent Technology Work?

You may notice a temporary lifting effect directly after using a microcurrent device or getting a microcurrent facial (the advertising often displays results after using the devices on half the face, and there is a definite lifting effect on the treated side). Sadly, this is temporary, and likely due to increased blood flow and transient muscle stimulation (spoiler: you can get the same effect from a facial massage or by using one of the many non-electronic facial massage tools, like a gua sha tool, for a lot less money). Unfortunately, there are no proven long-term benefits, and any visible results fade within hours.

The Qr8 Verdict

Microcurrent lifting devices or facials might offer a temporary ‘lift’ for special occasions, or if you are dedicated enough to use it daily. You can get the same temporary lift with simple massage. There’s no evidence that microcurrent devices promote collagen production or tighten/lift sagging skin in the long-term. Unfortunately, if you are after treatments that tighten sagging skin, even the in-clinic options are limited, and chatting to a surgeon is your best option.

2. LED Therapy

The Science

LED (Light Emitting Diode) therapy has an interesting origin. Initially developed by NASA in the 1960s to promote wound healing in space, LED technology entered the skincare world in the 1990s. NASA does not produce LED skin treatment devices, even though some advertising suggests that it does.

LEDs are not the same as lasers or IPL (Intense Pulsed Light); the light source emits specific wavelengths of light that penetrate the skin without causing thermal (heat) damage. This process, called ‘photobiomodulation’, stimulates cellular processes for beneficial effects. The light is absorbed into cell membranes and mitochondria, influencing various processes like collagen production and inflammation reduction.

Different LED wavelengths target different concerns:

– Red Light (630–700nm): Promotes collagen production and improves skin elasticity.

– Near-Infrared Light (800–900nm): Penetrates deeper layers, aiding in wound healing and reducing inflammation.

– Blue Light (400–490nm): Can reduce acne-causing bacteria, but acne is a much more complex medical condition than just an overgrowth of bacteria, so LED is not an evidence-based treatment when used alone.

– Green and Yellow Light – there is almost no evidence that these wavelengths have any positive effect on skin.

LED Therapy Benefits

Clinical studies have shown that medical-grade LED treatments can:

– Reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen

– Speed up wound healing and improve scars

– Improve sun damage by targeting discoloration and texture issues

Professional LED devices deliver powerful, targeted doses of light energy (irradiance) using thousands of diodes. Multiple sessions (up to eight, over four weeks) are required, with results peaking months after the treatment series has ended. So, the occasional LED treatment with a facial won’t do much.

Importantly, LED therapy is most effective when combined with proven topical at-home treatments like tretinoin and sun protection, and other professional in-clinic treatments such as laser, chemical peels and injectables. So, the results from in-clinic LED treatments, used alone, are still subtle. For this reason, LED is usually used to complement other professional treatments as part of an overall treatment plan, not as a stand-alone treatment.

At-Home LED Devices: What’s the Difference?

Home-use LED devices – ranging from hands-free masks to handheld wands – are far less powerful than in-clinic LED devices. With fewer diodes and lower irradiance (light intensity), these devices can’t deliver results comparable to professional treatments.

Even more dubious are the handheld LED wands that are all over social media. With only a handful of diodes (sometimes only 4!), these devices require constant movement across the skin to deliver light. Their low energy output and short contact time make it nearly impossible to achieve meaningful results. Claims about their benefits borrow from studies conducted with professional-grade devices, creating unrealistic expectations of what these low-cost devices can produce.

What the Science Says

A study of 24 participants found no significant wrinkle reduction after eight weeks of daily use of a mask with both red and near-infrared light: While skin smoothness and elasticity improved, results were similar on both treated and untreated sides.

Another trial using red and near-infrared light twice a week for four weeks showed some improvement in crow’s feet lines. However, the study’s poor design – both the lack of a control group and investigator bias – makes the findings unreliable.

The Qr8 Verdict

Save your money for in-clinic treatments that target your concerns. LED is a great add-on when used in-clinic.

3. Are At-Home Devices Safe?

Just as NASA hasn’t made your LED device, be careful of terms like ‘FDA/TGA approved’ used to market a device. This doesn’t mean the at-home device is effective, it just means that it’s considered safe to use (and won’t kill you!).

In general, LED and microcurrent devices are safe for most users. However, there are exceptions:

– Avoid LED devices if you have photosensitive conditions (e.g., lupus, melasma) or take photosensitizing medications like some antibiotics (tetracyclines), antifungals, blood pressure medications and Roaccutane.

– Consult a doctor if you have underlying skin conditions or are prone to seizures.

4. How to Choose and Use At-Home Skincare Devices

At-home skincare devices might not revolutionise your routine, but they can be enjoyable for those who love experimenting with new technologies and can afford them. If they bring joy to your skincare ritual, all the better. However, if you’re on the fence or concerned about cost, know that you’re not missing out on a miracle cure.

For lasting results, stick to evidence-based skincare:

– Tretinoin and Wide-Spectrum Sunscreen: The foundation of anti-aging, pigmentation and acne treatment

– Professional Treatments: For deeper, long-lasting improvements.

– Healthy Habits: balanced diet, and quality sleep go a long way.

Skincare is personal, but the science doesn’t lie. Focus on what’s proven, and let the rest be a luxurious—and optional—indulgence.

If you’re still tempted to try an at-home device, here are some tips:

1. Do Your Research: Look for devices with transparent specifications, including diode density, wavelength, and irradiance.
2. Be Consistent: Lower-power devices will require frequent use to show even minimal results.
3. Set Realistic Expectations: Don’t expect clinic-level results. These devices are best used as a supplement to evidence-based skincare routine and wide-spectrum sunscreen.